It’s been just over one month since longtime Baltimore restaurateur Cindy Wolf took home her first James Beard Foundation Award after 24 previous nominations, but the accolade “immediately” impacted Harbor East restaurant Charleston.
The fine dining, southern eatery won in the Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program category, and Wolf took to the stage with the restaurant’s wine director, Lindsay Willey, where the chef expressed gratitude for the recognition, Willey and the rest of her staff.
Wolf talked with The Baltimore Sun on Friday about her journey to the win, as well as the impact on Charleston in the weeks following.
Editor’s note: Questions and answers have been edited for brevity and clarity.
What about Lowcountry food first hooked you?
Growing up in North Carolina when I was little — and my parents are both from York, Pennsylvania — my mother was still doing Pennsylvania Dutch cooking. The lady across the street was from an old North Carolina family, and when we were over at their place, Mrs. Thrower would make pound cake. I just remember the first time I ate Carolina pound cake, and, wow, it was just the best dessert I’d ever had in my life.
I think my exposure to southern cooking started when I was little, but as I ended up moving to our new home in Charleston, that was when I really started to learn about Lowcountry cooking — working in restaurants and also working with local people and eating at their house and having their mom’s cooking.
Truly, southern food is food of the home. At that time, no one was doing fancy with fine dining and southern cooking. If they were, it was really much more French than anything — but they weren’t doing down-home southern cooking.
What made you want to bring that style of cooking to Baltimore?
I started it at Georgia Brown’s [restaurant] as the executive chef in Washington, D.C. The people that owned that, I had been working for their company at one of their Italian concepts. I had actually quit because I wanted to go back into fine dining, but then the VP of the company said that they were going to open a fine dining southern restaurant. I thought, “Well, this was meant to be.”
I obviously stayed with the company, and I opened the restaurant for them. Tony Foreman was the opening general manager, and that’s where I met him. A year and a half later, we were married. Tony grew up in Baltimore, and I was familiar with the city. I didn’t know I was making a lifetime decision when I said, “Sure, let’s move to Baltimore and try and open a restaurant,” And 30 years later, here I am.
I was very interested in continuing that food because it is very old, and there’s so many different cultures that affect it, from Native American and West African, particularly the people from Sierra Leone, to Western European, particularly the French, Huguenots and the English. Those influences are so important, and it’s a lot of cultures to begin to understand, so that was one of the reasons why I love Lowcountry food.
How do you inject all that history and culture into the food at Charleston?
I try to walk in the pathways of all of those southern cooks. I really try to do things as authentically as possible. One of the things that helps with doing that is that when I first started working in Charleston [South Carolina] at 19, the general manager was Glenn Roberts, who was part of bringing back Carolina Gold rice and the old heirloom variety corn that was produced in the Charleston area.
We don’t have a lot of history from the time the country became the United States of America, but we have tremendous Native American history and Indigenous peoples’ history. Grits were not a part of that, but it’s that use of corn that is so indicative of the Indigenous peoples’ culture and cooking.
I do a lot of research — I have the Carolina housewife cookbook, I have the old housewife cookbooks that are from the 1800s, I have the first African American woman’s cookbook, and I have many other Geechee and Gullah cookbooks. I found every book and public document I could possibly read about it.
Why is that research important to you?
I think it’s one of the most important cuisines in our country. I believe that the African influence is extremely important to preserve, as well as the Native American influence. Anything I could do as a chef to be a part of that, that’s super important to me. It comes back to the fact that there are French influences because I just love French cooking, you know, I was taught the basics at the Culinary Institute of America. I just love the food, and it’s not really that dissimilar to what I was raised on.
What is it like to work with Willey?
She’s just really good at what she does. I love working with her. She’s also funny. She’s a very smart person, and I love, appreciate and respect her work ethic. She’s just a really good taster, and that’s not something that comes naturally for people.
I was lucky that I grew up eating in great restaurants from the time I was a child and that family was in the food business. I’m meant to do what I do, and I believe that while [Willey] was pursuing a marketing degree and all these things that she was pursuing, and then ended up working for us as a waiter, and then ended up becoming this wine person, that was what she was meant to do. She has a natural instinct, along with the fact that she’s worked hard.
How has it felt to receive all the James Beard nominations and now to finally be recognized with the award?
Honestly, the first time I was nominated, we didn’t even know because it was so long ago, and it came into some obscure email address. The first time I was a finalist, the awards ceremony was at the Essex Hotel ballroom, and that’s how far it’s come. We were just at the Lyric Opera House [for the most recent awards], and it’s a black-tie event, but we used to sit in rowed banquet chairs.
Honestly, after being so excited about it so many times and then not winning, I go there with a pit in my stomach, certain that I’m not going to win. I support the industry wholeheartedly, but I’ll just be honest — I’ve been so disappointed every time. I mean, you hope you’ll win, and then you hear someone else’s name.
But I looked at Lindsay three minutes before they were going to announce it, and I said, “We should just have a plan.”
[For the speech,] three things that were most important to me, and one of them I didn’t do, which was to thank the James Beard Foundation. But I also wanted to thank the people who work for me and thank the immigrants in our country because we would be nothing in the restaurant business without immigration and immigrants. What’s going on in our country is so unbelievably upsetting to me, and I wanted to use my voice. It was a very heartfelt moment for me, and it meant a lot. It meant everything to me to be up there and to be chosen by my peers.
Now that you’re back in Baltimore, what has the atmosphere at Charleston been like?
We’ve been very, very busy. I’m very, very thankful for the energy that’s extremely high in the dining room. Baltimore folks are so supportive and so happy, and it’s overwhelming. They feel good, I feel good, and it’s just a happy thing.
Will there be any changes to the wine program?
We have a huge cellar, and we will continue to improve it. Lindsay will probably make me buy even more top-tier wines. One of the hardest things for a restaurant is the depth of age, and that’s another goal of mine and a bit more of a challenge.
Have you noticed your customer base change at all?
I feel like it has. We’re getting a lot of wine people in; we’re getting more chefs in. I felt like there’s been a change, frankly, immediately. At tables, I’m talking a lot about wine, and I’m talking a lot about high-end food. There is very vibrant conversation about both at the table right now, which is very cool for me because there’s not much more I’d like to talk about.
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