Although the traces of January’s snowstorm are melting away, winter still holds its grip, according to forecasters and one groundhog. To curb the cold, here are five Baltimore soup destinations.
Ammoora
The first time I visited Ammoora in The Ritz-Carlton Residences, the table went big. We ordered for a birthday dinner, an array of chef Dima Al-Chaar’s fine-dining plates — spreads, mezzes, entrees, whimsical confections. But among the sumptuous Levantine display, one humble dish stood out: the Syrian wedding soup. For a quieter night with my budget more in mind, I returned for the sake of this creamy dish, deep in flavor from its vegetable broth and herbs, rich from the yogurt and with a swirl of chile oil. The coup is the firm texture of barley pieces, like al dente risotto. Ammoora’s other soup is red lentil with roasted tomato and a toasted cumin breadstick, satisfying but perhaps not celebratory enough to be named for a wedding, per se. That Syrian bowl is your $11 ticket into a gorgeous space named one of The New York Times’ favorites. Go on a weeknight, sit at the bar, and sip away. 751 Key Highway; 443-872-6600; ammoora.com
Beulah International Restaurant
In East Baltimore’s Milton-Montford, Beulah International isn’t hand-holding the American diner through Nigerian food. For example, with the catfish pepper soup, be prepared for a whole, meaty fish head among the potatoes, its cheeks peeling off in slabs. And the spice level of the turkey pepper soup might cause a cough to those who aren’t prepared for it, though, as my dining partner said, “It’s not punching me totally in the face, but it’s a sting, and it feels good.” Loaded with protein, these soups are among the heartiest on this list and deeply flavorful.
The side dishes are key here for balance, such as the comforting jollof rice; mild, seed-based egusi; and mounds of starchy “swallow” foods like pounded yam iyan and cassava eba. The back-and-forth between soup and carbs encourages eating with your hands in a convivial feast. 2416 E. Monument St.; 443-438-6421; thebeulahrestaurant.com
La Taverna Ecuatoriana
The sopas at this low-key, Greektown eatery are full of mini miracles. How can the full chicken drumstick swimming in the herbal caldo de gallina broth be cut with a spoon? In the sopa de mariscos, how is every variety of shellfish — mussels, clams, shrimp, calamari, mini octopus, a crab leg cluster — cooked correctly without any rubberiness or shriveled bivalves? The yellow base of that one alone, like the soup version of an ají amarillo sauce, should be brought to the Vatican for study. And the encebollado, a fish soup with tender yuca, wispy red onions and a small bushel of cilantro, is a national dish of Ecuador for a reason. 300 Oldham St.; 410-675-8383.
Mekong Delta Cafe
Soup takeout at downtown’s Mekong Delta Cafe is boxed up carefully: the noodles in one Tupperware with the raw veggies, pile of herbs and lime wedge; the container of broth mixed with protein and cooked produce; the yin and yang of sriracha and sweet brown sauces tucked up together. Although I shudder to think how much plastic the Vietnamese restaurant goes through, this care in separate packaging leads to fresh, bright soups, each bite — or slurp — with the potential to be different from the last. A standout of these combinations was the fiery vegetable broth and tofu with both the red and brown sauces. But chicken pho was deep and earthy, dark brown and speckled with bits of fat that dissolve on the tongue like snowflakes. 222 N. Charles St.; 443-955-1100.
Soup’s On
No collection of Baltimore soups could be complete without this old-school, Mid-Town Belvedere lunch counter that also boasts my all-time favorite sandwich in the city. But ordering that portobello and red pepper roll alone is a mistake. This is a soup spot, as the colorful owners have been known to insist. (If you just want a sandwich, Subway’s around the corner, I was once told. The occasional crabbiness is part of the charm.) And the rotating menu, with a mix of vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options, is always worth trying. The honey bourbon butternut takes you back to the first day of fall, before winter had beaten you down, with the whiskey providing both sweetness and bite. The chicken enchilada is a Celiac cowboy’s dream with corn, beans, and chunks of meat, and the spinach feta feels like eating your greens with a hidden treat. The mainstay of Maryland crab comes from deep stock and crunchy vegetables. Don’t expect the jumbo lump soup of an Inner Harbor tourist. You’re only paying $5 for a cup or $8 for a pint, but it’s still completely imbued with crab, even if the meat is shredded. This soup to show of real life in Baltimore: inexpensive, hearty and enough to warm you up. 11 W. Preston St.; 410-528-1003; soupsonbalto.com
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